🥯 An Pan (Red Bean Buns): A Comforting Taste of Japan

🥯 An Pan (Red Bean Buns): A Comforting Taste of Japan

If I had to pick one sweet that brings me back to childhood in Japan, it would be anko—sweet red bean paste. Made from azuki beans, anko is a beloved staple across East Asia, commonly used in Japanese, Korean, and Chinese desserts. It's a versatile treat, pairing beautifully with bread, pancakes, rice cakes, and even doughnuts.

What’s more, anko is naturally low in fat (without butter or oils) and packed with complex carbohydrates, which has helped it gain popularity as a "healthy sweet" in countries like the US and across Europe.

While making anko from scratch can be quite labor-intensive and technical, it’s widely available in Japanese and Asian supermarkets all year round—making it easy to enjoy even if you're short on time.

🍡 Anko & Tradition

In my hometown in northern Japan, mochi with anko is a must-have during New Year’s celebrations. Eating it always makes me feel a little nostalgic and overwhelmed in the best way—like reliving a special holiday memory.

There are two main types of anko:

  1. Tsubu-an (つぶあん): Chunky style, with pieces of azuki bean skin for added texture.
  2. Koshi-an (こしあん): Smooth and silky, made by straining out the skins.

People often debate which one is better, but for me, Tsubu-an has always been the winner!

🍞 What is An Pan?

An Pan (あんパン) is a soft, fluffy bun filled with sweet red bean paste. "An" refers to the bean paste, and "pan" is the Japanese word for bread, derived from Portuguese.

It's a classic snack loved by people of all ages in Japan—sweet, satisfying, and perfect with a cup of green tea or coffee.

🧑‍🍳 Homemade An Pan Recipe (Makes 6 buns) 📝 Ingredients:
  1. 100g anko paste (Tsubu-an or Koshi-an—your choice!)
  2. 220g bread flour
  3. 120ml milk (warmed to about 40°C)
  4. 1 egg (beaten, half used in dough and half for egg wash)
  5. 20g sugar
  6. 2g salt
  7. 3g dry yeast
  8. 20g unsalted butter (softened)

 

🥖 Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Make the Dough

In a large bowl, mix together bread flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Add warm milk and half of the beaten egg. Mix with a spoon or rubber spatula until sticky.

2. Knead the Dough

Transfer the dough to a clean surface. Knead for 10 minutes until it becomes smooth and elastic.

Don’t worry if it sticks to your hands at first—it gets better!

3. Add Butter

Add softened butter and knead for another 5 minutes. The dough should stretch thinly without tearing when ready.

4. First Proof

Place the dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp cloth, and let it rise in a warm place (30–40°C) for about 40 minutes, or until doubled in size.

5. Proof Test

Gently press a finger into the center of the dough. If the dent remains, it’s ready.

6. Divide and Rest

Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces, shape into balls, and let them rest for 10 minutes under a cloth.

7. Fill with Anko

Flatten each dough ball, place a spoonful of anko in the center, and wrap the dough around it, pinching to seal. Reshape into a round bun.

8. Second Proof

Place buns on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Cover and let rise again for 20 minutes.

9. Bake

Preheat the oven to 180°C (356°F). Brush the tops with the remaining beaten egg for a shiny finish.

Bake for 15–20 minutes, or until golden brown.

🍽️ Enjoy Your Homemade An Pan!

Fresh out of the oven, these buns are soft and slightly sweet with a comforting anko center. Whether you grew up with them or are trying them for the first time, An Pan is a warm hug in every bite.

Meshiagare! (Enjoy your meal!)

...
🏰 Three Days in Edinburgh, Scotland Itinerary – with Google Maps
🏰 Three Days in Edinburgh, Scotland Itinerary – with Google Maps

“Every man dies. Not every man really lives.” – William Wallace

 

From Scotch whisky and the Loch Ness Monster to bagpipes, Harry Potter, and legendary redheads—Scotland has it all. One week can barely scratch the surface of this storied land. With its breathtaking landscapes, centuries-old castles, and fierce cultural pride, Scotland is the kind of place that captures your imagination and lingers in your soul.

At the heart of it all lies Edinburgh—one of my absolute favorite cities in the world. The capital city effortlessly blends medieval charm with modern flair, wrapped in dramatic scenery and warm, witty hospitality. I’m thrilled to share this thoughtfully curated 3-day itinerary for Edinburgh, packed with history, hidden gems, and personal favorites.

immersing in the beauty and rich heritage of Scotland

🕒 Is 3 Days Enough for Edinburgh?

Absolutely! Three days in Edinburgh is the sweet spot for experiencing the city's main highlights while still having time to slow down and soak in its character.

Despite being Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh is compact and walkable. From the ancient Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle to trendy neighborhoods like Stockbridge and the New Town, most attractions are within easy reach. Whether you're a history buff, a foodie, or a fan of the supernatural, you’ll find something to fall in love with.

☀️ Best Time to Visit Edinburgh

The ideal time to visit Edinburgh is between June and August:

  1. Weather: Expect mild highs around 65°F (18°C). It’s summer—but pack a light jacket and umbrella just in case.
  2. Daylight: In June, you’ll enjoy up to 17 hours of daylight. Perfect for full sightseeing days!
  3. Festivals: Don’t miss August’s iconic festivals—Edinburgh Festival Fringe, Edinburgh International Festival, and the dramatic Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
taking a moment to engage with street performers

🚍 Getting Around in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is easy to navigate, thanks to its excellent public transport and walkable layout.

  1. Buses: Run by Lothian Buses, these are reliable and cover the entire city. Pay with exact change or a contactless card.
  2. Trams: Great for airport transfers and a smooth ride into the city centre. Slightly pricier but convenient.
  3. Walking: You’ll be doing a lot of this—and loving it! The Royal Mile, Princes Street Gardens, and Victoria Street are all best explored on foot.
  4. Cycling: Bike lanes and rental options are growing, though cobblestones and hills can be tricky in spots.
Edinburgh based busking band, The Spinning Blowfish

🛂 Tourist Visa for Scotland

Filipino travelers need a UK Standard Visitor Visa to visit Scotland. Required documents typically include:

  1. Completed visa application form
  2. Valid passport
  3. Passport-sized photographs
  4. Proof of financial means
  5. Detailed travel itinerary
  6. Proof of ties to the Philippines
  7. Accommodation details
school field trips were everywhere, filling the streets with youthful energy

🛏️ Top Places to Stay in Edinburgh

✅ Must-Do Activities in Edinburgh

🗺️ Edinburgh Itinerary

Day 1: History, Legends & City Icons

Immerse yourself in Edinburgh’s historic heart.

  1. 🏰 Edinburgh Castle

    Perched atop Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle is a historic fortress that dominates the skyline of Edinburgh. It offers a deep dive into Scotland's history, with highlights including the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny. The castle has been a royal residence, military stronghold, and now a world-famous tourist attraction. Arrive early to avoid crowds and attend the One O'Clock Gun firing.

    spotted Jollibee from the heights of Edinburgh Castle—talk about a taste of home in a historic setting
  2. 🌳 Princes Street Gardens

    These beautiful public gardens lie in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle and offer a peaceful retreat from the bustling city. The gardens were created in the 1820s after draining the Nor Loch, a former marshland. Take a leisurely stroll and enjoy the seasonal floral displays.

    tranquil garden escape amidst the hustle and bustle of the city
  3. 🚶‍♀️ The Royal Mile

    This historic street stretches from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, lined with shops, restaurants, and historic sites. The Royal Mile is actually a Scots mile, which is longer than an English mile. Wear comfortable shoes as the cobblestones can be uneven.

    Royal Mile is buzzing with activities and vibrant street performers
  4. 🖼️ Scottish National Gallery

    Home to Scotland's national collection of fine art, the gallery features works from the Renaissance to the early 20th century. The gallery houses masterpieces by artists such as Botticelli, Raphael, and Van Gogh. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated.

  5. 🗿 Scott Monument

    This Gothic monument honors Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland's most famous writers. It is the largest monument dedicated to a writer in the world. Climb the 287 steps for a panoramic view of the city.

    stands majestically, a true testament to grandeur
  6. 🎨 Victoria Street

    Known for its colorful and curved buildings, Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh's most picturesque streets. Victoria Street is said to have inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. Explore the unique shops and cafes along the way.

  7. 🥃 The Scotch Whisky Experience

    An interactive tour that takes you through the history and production of Scotland's most famous export. The experience includes a ride in a whisky barrel and a tasting of Scotch whiskies. Book in advance to secure your preferred tour time.

  8. 🔮 Camera Obscura & World of Illusions

    A fun and interactive museum filled with optical illusions, a rooftop camera obscura, and hands-on exhibits. The camera obscura has been in operation since 1853, making it one of the oldest attractions in Edinburgh. Perfect for families and those looking for a unique experience.

  9. 🍷 Witchery by the Castle

    A luxurious and atmospheric restaurant located near Edinburgh Castle, known for its Gothic decor and fine dining. The restaurant is named after the witch trials that took place nearby in the 16th and 17th centuries. Make a reservation in advance, especially for dinner.

  10. 🍻 Grassmarket

    A historic marketplace that now hosts a variety of pubs, shops, and eateries. Grassmarket was once a site for public executions, and you can still see the marks of the gallows. Visit in the evening for a lively atmosphere and great pub experiences.

    Grassmarket bursts with colour and charm
  11. 🐾 Maison de Moggy

    Scotland's first cat cafe, where you can relax with a cup of tea and the company of friendly felines. The cafe is home to several breeds of cats, each with their own unique personality. Book a time slot in advance as it's popular and has limited space.

  12. 📸 Vennel Viewpoint

    A hidden gem offering one of the best views of Edinburgh Castle. The Vennel is a narrow alleyway that provides a picturesque and often overlooked vantage point. Visit at sunset for a stunning photo opportunity.

  13. 🐻 Wojtek the Soldier Bear Memorial

    A statue commemorating Wojtek, a bear who served with the Polish army during World War II and later lived in Edinburgh Zoo. Wojtek carried ammunition during the Battle of Monte Cassino and became a symbol of bravery and camaraderie. Located in Princes Street Gardens, it's a quick and interesting stop.

  14. ⛪ St. John’s Scottish Episcopal Church

    A beautiful Gothic Revival church located at the west end of Princes Street. The church is known for its commitment to social justice and hosts various community events. Take a moment to appreciate the stunning stained glass windows.

  15. 🍸 Edinburgh Gin Distillery

    Discover the art of gin-making with a tour of this popular distillery, complete with tastings. Edinburgh Gin offers a variety of unique flavors, including a gin inspired by the 1670s recipe for the original Edinburgh gin. Book your tour in advance, as spots fill up quickly.

 

Day 2: Natural Beauty & Royal Legacy

Get outside and into Edinburgh’s deeper layers.

  1. ⛰️ Arthur’s Seat

    An ancient volcano and the main peak in the group of hills in Edinburgh. It offers stunning panoramic views of the city and surrounding landscape. Arthur's Seat is often associated with the legends of King Arthur and is believed to be one of the possible locations of Camelot. Wear sturdy shoes and bring water. The hike can be steep but is manageable for most fitness levels.

    breathtaking views from the summit
  2. 🌍 Dynamic Earth

    An interactive science museum that tells the story of our planet, from the Big Bang to the present day. The museum features a 4D experience and a time machine that takes you through the history of the Earth. Perfect for families and those interested in geology and natural history. Allow at least 2-3 hours to explore.

  3. 🏰 Palace of Holyroodhouse

    The official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, this palace is steeped in history and has been a royal residence for centuries. Mary, Queen of Scots lived here, and you can visit her private chambers and see the spot where her secretary, David Rizzio, was murdered. Check the schedule, as the palace may be closed to the public during royal visits. Audio guides are available and highly recommended.

  4. ⛪ Canongate Kirk

    A historic church located on the Royal Mile, known for its beautiful architecture and royal connections. The church was built in 1688 and is the parish church for the Scottish Parliament. Visit the churchyard where notable figures like economist Adam Smith are buried.

  5. 📍 Point 15

    A lesser-known but charming spot offering a unique perspective of Edinburgh's architecture and street life. Point 15 is often used by locals as a meeting spot due to its central location.

  6. 📸 Calton Hill

    Home to several iconic monuments and offers one of the best views of Edinburgh. The hill features the National Monument, often referred to as "Edinburgh's Disgrace" because it was never completed. Visit at sunrise or sunset for breathtaking views. It's an easy walk from the city centre.

  7. ⚰️ Old Calton Cemetery

    This historic cemetery is the final resting place of many notable figures, including philosopher David Hume. The cemetery includes a memorial to Scottish-American soldiers who fought in the American Civil War. Take a guided tour to learn about the cemetery's history and its famous inhabitants.

    discover history and tranquillity at Cemetery
  8. 🕳️ The Real Mary King’s Close

    An underground tour that takes you through a series of hidden streets and spaces beneath the Royal Mile, revealing Edinburgh's dark and fascinating past. The close is named after Mary King, a merchant burgess who lived there in the 17th century. Book tickets in advance, as tours can sell out quickly. It is not recommended for very young children or those who are claustrophobic.

  9. ⛪ St Giles' Cathedral

    Also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, this cathedral is a focal point of the Royal Mile and features stunning Gothic architecture. The cathedral has been a site of worship for over 900 years and played a significant role in the Scottish Reformation. Don't miss the Thistle Chapel, known for its intricate carvings and beautiful stained glass.

  10. 🐶 Greyfriars Bobby's Grave

    The grave of Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye Terrier who famously guarded his owner's grave for 14 years. Bobby's loyalty has been commemorated with a statue and a dedicated grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Visit the nearby Greyfriars Bobby statue and pub for a complete experience.

  11. 🏛️ National Museum of Scotland

    This museum offers a vast collection of artefacts that cover Scotland's history, culture, and natural world. The museum houses Dolly the Sheep, the first mammal to be cloned from an adult cell. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours here.

    exploring the wonders of history and culture at the National Museum

 

Day 3: Magic, Nature & Hidden Gems

A relaxed and whimsical final day in the city.

  1. 🌿 Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

    A world-renowned scientific centre for the study of plants, offering 70 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens. The garden was founded in 1670 and is one of the oldest botanic gardens in the world. Wear comfortable shoes as there is a lot to explore. Check out the glasshouses for exotic plants.

  2. 🧪 The Cauldron

    An immersive cocktail experience where you can brew your own magical potions using molecular mixology. The experience includes a wand and robe, making you feel like a true wizard or witch. Book your session in advance, as it's a popular attraction. Perfect for Harry Potter fans and those looking for a unique experience.

  3. 🏘️ Dean Village

    A picturesque and historic village located just a short walk from the city centre, known for its charming cobbled streets and scenic views. Dean Village was once a grain milling hamlet and has retained much of its 19th-century charm. Take your time to explore, and bring a camera for some stunning photo opportunities.

  4. 🌊 Water of Leith Walkway

    This peaceful walkway follows the Water of Leith River, providing a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. The Water of Leith Walkway stretches for 12 miles, from Balerno to Leith, passing through some of Edinburgh's most beautiful natural scenery. The walkway is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a bike ride. Look out for local wildlife along the way.

  5. ⛪ St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral

    A stunning Gothic Revival cathedral located in the West End of Edinburgh, known for its impressive architecture and serene atmosphere. The cathedral is the largest ecclesiastical building in Scotland and was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, a prominent Victorian architect. Take a moment to enjoy the peaceful interior and the beautiful stained glass windows.

soulful melodies of Scotland with a traditional bagpipe

Let Edinburgh surprise you. It’s a city that tells stories—through its castles, cobblestones, and friendly locals. And with just three days, you’ll leave with memories as rich and magical as its misty skyline.

🗺️ Maps

🍮 Japanese Savory Egg Custard – Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し)
🍮 Japanese Savory Egg Custard – Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し)

When people think of Japanese food, the first thing that usually comes to mind is sushi—and that’s fair! Sushi is now beloved all over the world, and I always make sure to have it as my first meal when I return to Japan.

But have you ever noticed a warm, delicate side dish that sometimes accompanies your sushi?

That little cup of silky, savory custard is called Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し)—a traditional Japanese steamed egg pudding. It's soft, umami-rich, and typically served as a small appetizer in Japanese cuisine. “Chawan” means rice bowl, and “mushi” means steamed. So yes—it’s literally “steamed in a rice bowl.”

🌸 My Memory of Chawanmushi

For me, Chawanmushi is more than just a side dish. It’s a cherished family tradition. Every New Year’s Day, my grandmother makes it for the whole family. Her version has just the right balance of salt and sweetness, and the moment I taste it, I know I’m home.

It’s simple but elegant—and a great way to start a Japanese course meal at home for your guests.

🍽 Ingredients (Serves 2)

Egg Custard:

  1. Egg: 1
  2. Dashi soup: 50ml
  3. Salt: a pinch
  4. Sugar: optional, for a mild sweetness

Fillings (feel free to adjust):

  1. Chicken thigh: ~30g (cut into small pieces)
  2. Shiitake or any mushroom: 1
  3. Kamaboko (fish cake): 1–2 slices (optional)
  4. Edamame beans or ginkgo nuts
  5. Carrot (thinly sliced for garnish)
  6. Mitsuba or parsley (for decoration)

👩‍🍳 How to Make Chawanmushi

1. Prepare the Dashi

If you’re using dashi powder, dissolve 1 tsp (about 3–4g) into 50ml of hot water and let it cool.

If you’re using a dashi bag, steep it in 200ml of boiling water for about 4 minutes, then discard the bag and let the broth cool. You’ll use just 50ml for this recipe.

2. Mix the Egg and Dashi

Gently beat the egg and mix in the cooled dashi. Try to avoid creating bubbles—this helps make the custard smooth.

3. Strain the Mixture

Strain the egg-dashi mixture through a fine sieve to get a silky texture. Pour it evenly into two heat-safe cups or bowls.

4. Add the Fillings

Place your chicken, mushroom, kamaboko, and beans into the cups. These will sit under the custard as it steams. You can get creative with the fillings—just don’t overload the cups.

5. Steam

Place a cloth under the lid of your steamer or pot to prevent condensation from dripping onto the custard. Steam over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then reduce to low and steam for another 10 minutes.

Tip: You can also use a flat pan with a lid and a little water inside to steam if you don’t have a steamer.

6. Garnish and Serve

Top with a slice of carrot and a sprig of mitsuba or parsley. Serve warm.

🥢 Final Thoughts

Chawanmushi is subtle, elegant, and packed with umami. It’s the perfect way to welcome guests or start off a traditional Japanese meal. Soft, savory, and comforting—it might just become your next favorite Japanese dish.

Meshiagare (Enjoy your meal)!